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Giles Deacon's luxurious fall collection worked fierce fur and black leather into beautifully crafted shapes...a flash of dominatrix flirtation.

After a wacky and colorful spring outing, Giles Deacon returned to sharply executed clothing. Working in a mostly black and white palette, Deacon sent out strict, austere silhouettes, such as high-necked white cotton shirts with stiff Victorian ruffled collars, one worn with a high-waisted, corseted black pencil skirt. Rich textures heightened the luxury of simple shapes. The hem of a high-necked black jacquard dress was trimmed with swishing black goat fur, while a high-collared cape came in gold brocade.

“I thought about the 19th-century obsession with female hysteria — something buttoned up but at the same time with something completely wild lurking underneath,” said the designer.

Meanwhile at Burberry Prorsum Christopher Bailey updated the brand’s signature trench: Some were fashioned from white silk jacquard, while others came in tweed and had a Sherlock Holmes feel — and a touch of luxe thanks to fur on the shoulders and collars. In keeping with the trend we’ve been seeing in which designers have been focused on dressing their customers for brutal winters, the collection had a heavy focus on outerwear, and luckily, bags to match. There were plenty of new proportions, including funnel-neck lumberjack check, or quilted cape styles with flaring kimono sleeves.

It is no surprise that Burberry Prorsum Fall/ Winter 2011/ 2012 fashion show was the most-attended show during London Fashion Week. Both UK and US stars sat in the front row. Among the British celebrities Daisy Lowe, Alexa Chung and Samantha Cameron appeared at the Burberry fashion presentation while Kate Bosworth, Rachel Bilson and Vogue editor Anna Wintour had to take a plane to get to London.