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Victoria's Secret best assets were on show this season with fuller busts in full bloom on the runway.

“Tits were obviously in the air!” In the words of Katie Grand, such was the simple reasoning behind one of the fall season’s more unusual runway trends: the prevalence of big-busted, big-name models more likely to appear plastered all over a teenage boy’s bedroom walls than a high-fashion runway. Grand, editor in chief of Love magazine, should know: She styled the Louis Vuitton , Giles and Loewe shows, all of which were stocked with stacked models—Alessandra Ambrosio, Izabel Goulart, Bar Refaeli, Laetitia Casta, Karolina Kurkova and Elle Macpherson among them. 

The voluptuous model moment originated at Prada according to wwd.com, where seven women best known for their work with Victoria’s Secret, including a few of the elite Angels, such as Ambrosio, Miranda Kerr and Doutzen Kroes, were cast to fill out the clothes. Before the show, Miuccia Prada said it was a “womanly collection with sexier models,” which was interesting, since much of collection, regardless of the recurrent focus on the bust, was made up of conservative, even matronly, silhouettes not typically suited to swimsuit-edition models. The perversity of it all wasn’t lost on Ambrosio, who was vacationing in her native Brazil at the height of Carnivale when she got the call for Prada. “It was kind of surreal,” she says. “What would they want to do with me? They’re usually not interested in sexy models.” 

But if Prada sought to cover up the girls’ assets, Marc Jacobs wanted to show them off at Vuitton. “He wanted cleavage,” said Ambrosio, who wore a fit-and-flare skirt and floral bustier engineered for maximum push-up effect. Indeed, Jacobs’ collection was a Bardot-inspired celebration of womanly beauty, titled “And God Created Woman.” Which was to say the collection was geared toward and inspired by certifiable adults, a point he hammered home with his lineup. “We’re opening with Laetitia Casta and closing with Elle Macpherson,” he said a few days before his show, noting that, at Vuitton, “everything is bigger.” And older. Jacobs’ show opener and closer were 31 and 47, respectively, with the rest of his models in their mid-20s. 

It made for a major statement, though Jacobs has since insisted it was not intended as a political input into fashion’s ongoing conversation about healthy body image—or age, for that matter. “Katie Grand and I already decided way before the collection began that we were going to use [these models],” Jacobs told the audience at a recent lecture. “The criteria was that they had to be available the day of the show and they had to be gorgeous.” 

Most of the models were surprised to be considered. Even if they have a designer runway history, it’s been a while since they were regulars. Macpherson couldn’t even remember the last time she walked a catwalk. “Perhaps Valentino, 20 years ago!” she said. “Marc called and asked me to do the show and, trusting his vision, I immediately said yes. Since I’m producing a TV show at the moment, I couldn’t believe I actually had that particular day free.” Meanwhile, Kurkova and Adriana Lima, who also walked in Vuitton, each had their first baby last fall, and as Refaeli put it: “I don’t walk fashion weeks. It is usually the really skinny girls and very, very tall girls who are doing them. I kind of feel like an alien among all those girls.” Still, the prospect of being cast as a novelty didn’t deter any of these women from making an exception for the shows. 

Now, the question is whether this curvier fashion moment will stick.

wwd.com, April 12, 2010