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Paris is in full swing with the most legendary fashion houses showing their haute couture collections.

Couture shows this season have been in touch, with energy and a modern sense of femininity. Elie Saab's parade of fishtail gowns and swishy cocktail dresses were perfectly pretty. Trains, a raised waistline and swags of fabrics over shoulders telegraphed a regal allure. Gowns in neutral colours were flattering to complexions, interspersed with a suite of black gowns with contrasting white-collared bodices had an impressive, waist-whittling quality. Most dresses were composed of multiple layers of tulle, sheer lace or chiffon, the outer layer dusted with fabric petals, a lattice of ribbons or scattered sparkling embroideries. 

Valentino was all about the pleat - in dresses, skirts and blouses. The delicate fabrics, the shades of nudes and pastels, the bows and butterflies — the simple long-sleeve day dress that’s on its way to becoming a house signature was recast in pleats. The gauzy organza and chiffon dresses — most of them sheer, many long — were all pleated. There were special details, such as Chantilly lace, honeycomb embroidery and floral appliqués. "Their collections seem to get more and more delicate and this time it was really barely there – so so light."

Chanel was somewhat girlish, primarily because the models glided along the Pavilion Cambon catwalk in flat, backless black patent shoes. At first impression their pastel frilled and feathered dresses gave them a Princess Josephine innocence but, combined with hair pulled up into knots and waist-less silhouettes suggested by dresses that either dropped low on the waist of skirts or fell from the shoulders or empire line for subtly glittering evening versions, it took on a more Grecian allure.